As a name for a restaurant it is hardly likely that The Purple Goose will fail to attract attention, but it is for the quality of its quality classic cuisine that it is more likely to be remembered. Scott Ludlow, Head Chef and Proprietor of this friendly place, aims to offer the things that so many restaurants aspire to, such as locally sourced produce of high quality and a wine list that inspires and complements, and unlike some actually achieves the desired results.

Their mission statement (whatever happened to all those worthy and often totally unattainable essays into optimism?) is short and pithy: 'The Purple Goose Restaurant - you either love it or you haven't eaten there'. So let's examine that claim.

The notion of having a great list of dishes under each course is fast fading - partly because the credit crunch has brought a sense of reality to such matters - and six opening courses, say, gives not unreasonable scope. Soup of the day is a steady survivor and with imagination brought into play, is sound judgement. A grilled whole Brixham lemon sole with a caramelised shallot and parsley butter make regular appearances as does the twice baked crab and smoked salmon soufflé with prawn velouté.

The Purple Goose is big on its chargrill, offering a range of weights from sirloin, ribeye and prime fillet. A choice of three sauces will satisfy most though I have the distinct feeling that another personal favourite might not be refused - just ask. The meat is sourced from the local butcher and is matured for a minimum of three weeks. And should you aspire to a T-bone or some other weight of steak, again do ask.

Seven main courses may include slow braised shoulder of lamb stuffed with herbs and fruit, confit garlic and blue cheese sauce, pan-roasted cod in aromatic spices, or corn-fed chicken breast wrapped in Parma ham.

The habit of passing up on a dessert course could be quite distressing, and often so symbolic that it hardly survives the first 'oh, go on'. In any case a list of seven mouth watering options is not the easiest of temptations to avoid, particularly when it is supplemented by a cheese trolley to die for. Eton mess, vanilla pod Chantilly cream, or seasonal fruit and spring berry coulis contains all the delights you might expect to find, and the duo of chocolate terrine with frozen aerated strawberry milk bottle could well prove to be the undoing of all your good intentions.

Lunch is served Wednesday to Saturday from an imaginative 2 or 3 course menu. The wine list at The Purple Goose is an example of its kind in that there are some 36 by the glass, making for really interesting drinking.

The Purple Room is an excellent haven for a party of up to 6 who want somewhere quiet and private to enjoy lunch or dinner. With its own private lounge, it is very affordable. Meanwhile the special events of the year are observed with élan.

Their Website provides further information and updates on menus for those wanting to plan in advance.