Founded by Giovanni Quaglino in 1929 this glamorous restaurant came under the scrutiny of Terence Conran in the early 90s, which has done it absolutely no harm at all. Launched in an ecstasy of love on Valentine's Day 1993, the magic never fails.

Quaglinos has always been a happy place, somewhere where people with something to celebrate have gone to be sure of staff who understand, chefs who respond and management who know how to manage. The sheer exuberance of that iconic staircase is enough to rouse anybody's spirits as you sweep into the classic brasserie, full of animated chatter. This is London at its best!

The buzz factor, girls with oomph, people-watching, exotic sculptures and paintings, and imaginative seafood all play their part in winding up the pace. Yes, an agreeable whiff of decadence does come into it, but nobody seems too bothered either way.

The menu seldom stays the same for long. Head Chef Darron Bunn has developed a classic menu which invokes the brasserie style, and the à la carte menu is a vehicle for Quaglino's Crustacea Altar, always a feast of seafood that is fresh, widely acquired and the sort of thing that floats into the minds of those who settle for nothing but the best from the sea.

The well designed Classic Menu with three or more choices from 3 courses makes a meal of summer pea soup with herb chantilly, followed by risotto of courgette and plum tomato, and finally closing with a apricot and almond tart.

However, it is to the à la carte that many are drawn, where the word 'entrées' sets a certain note that is welcomed by those who like a little style on their food. So shall it be chicken salad with pickled vegetables and peanut dressing, or hand dived scallops with chorizo, garlic and chopped parsley? The choice is yours; native West Mersea's oysters, fillet of red mullet served with cous cous, black olive and sun blushed tomato salad or a crustacean platter.

A smoked salmon with horseradish and peas, steak frites, seasoned to your liking at the table, or lobster and chips are but three choices from the heat, and in season the red leg partridge make a welcome appearance amongst the meat options. Smoked haddock fish cakes, Dover sole, darne of salmon with asparagus and Hollandaise sauce, make no concessions to being anything but good wholesome food from the sea.

A restaurant with brasserie leanings could not open its doors without the crème brulee amongst the closing temptations, and the cheeses for those of us so blessed can hardly ignore a glass of Prosecco Brut Jeio Biso, only underlining the fact that Quaglino's is a place where temptation is alive and very well.

Naturally they do lunch and with quality three course lunches still at under £25 can there really be anywhere else to eat? But traditionally Quaglino's is a night place too and the bar stays open late, late. If you fancy a cocktail nightcap around the weekends, head for Quag's. And the seafood can be extremely compelling - just give a little notice and be prepared for bliss. Not cheap, mind, but when was the real thing ever anything else?

Quaglino's is a London landmark, but unlike some it consistently fulfils its promise. Click on their Website to learn more.