Quaglino's

Founded by Giovanni Quaglino in 1929 this glamorous restaurant came under the scrutiny of Terence Conran in the early 90s, which has done it absolutely no harm at all. Launched in an ecstasy of love on Valentine's Day 1993, the magic never fails.

Quaglino's has always been a happy place, somewhere where people with something to celebrate have gone to be sure of staff who understand, chefs who respond and management who know how to manage. The sheer exuberance of that iconic staircase is enough to rouse anybody's spirits as you sweep into the classic brasserie, full of animated chatter. This is London at its best!

The buzz factor, girls with oomph, people-watching, exotic sculptures and paintings, and imaginative seafood all play their part in winding up the pace. Yes, an agreeable whiff of decadence does come into it, but nobody seems too bothered either way.

The menu seldom stays the same for long. Head Chef Konrad Inghelram has developed a modern seasonal menu which invokes the Parisian Brasserie style, and the à la carte menu is a vehicle for Quaglino?s Crustacea Altar, always a feast of seafood that is fresh, widely acquired and the sort of thing that floats into the minds of those who settle for nothing but the best from the sea.

So great is the homage to their roots that Quaglino's offers a Parisian Menu with three choices each from 3 courses making a meal of roasted red pepper and tomato soup, steak tartare with homemade chips and a vanilla Cambridge cream and orange shortbread for an incredibly modest sum a distinct possibility.

However, it is to the à la carte that many are drawn, where the word 'entrées' sets a certain note that is welcomed by those who like a little style on their food. So shall it be rock fish and shore crab soup or traditionally seasoned steak tartare ? the choice is yours? Native oysters from Falmouth Bay, Russian salad and Dijon or massive fruits de mer by the plateau are priced to share or go solo.

A grilled organic salmon with bois boudran, bean and shallot salad, filet steak Béarnaise and pomme pont neuf, or chateaubriand grillé are but three choices from the heat, and in season the red leg partridge make a welcome appearance amongst the meat options. Robust haddock with chips, salmon fish cake, and yellow fin tuna seasoned with mild spices on sweet and sour aubergine make no concessions to being anything but good wholesome food from the sea.

A restaurant with brasserie leanings could not open its doors without the classic lemon tart amongst the closing temptations, and the cheeses for those of us so blessed can hardly ignore a glass of Grahams 2001, only underlining the fact that Quaglino's is a place where temptation is alive and very well.

Naturally they do lunch and with quality three course lunches still at under £20 (2009) can there really be anywhere else to eat? But traditionally Quaglino's is a night place too and the bar stays open late, late. Fancy a cocktail nightcap around 3am Friday-Saturday, head for Quag's. And the caviar can be extremely compelling - just give a little notice and be prepared for bliss. Not cheap, mind, but when was the real thing ever anything else?

Quaglino's is a London landmark, but unlike some it consistently fulfils its promise. Click on their Website to learn more.