Quality Chop House, The

The Quality Chop House offers no-nonsense quality British food in dignified, historic surroundings at prices that are reasonable, a reliable classic of its kind that will bring you back again and again. Built in the 1870s by noted architect, Sir Roland Plumbe, the Quality Chop House is a rare survivor of the late nineteenth chop houses.

Working class they may have been but the quality of their food was such that London gentlemen found them a welcome alternative to the clubs and pubs of the day. Does a ghostly hint of the gastropubs to come spring to mind?

Nine bays of oak benches and tables are sturdily secured to the building, and the stained glass windows proclaim 'London's Noted Cup of Tea'. It comes as a relief to discover that there is a wine list that offers a thoughtfully assembled range of offerings from around the world (see below) which might induce more cheer than the English cup of tea, good though it is. A two course menu at under £10 offers a competitive option for lunch or pre-theatre.

The main menu operates throughout from midday, with starters that could include devilled lamb's kidneys on toast, jellied eels, anchovy and beetroot salad or potted shrimps. The steak tartare takes the form of spiced 28 day matured prime Scottish rump, and can also be taken as a main course.

Fried free-range eggs, back bacon and chips make bring echoes of the all day breakfast, and traditionalists may well drool over the hand-made Cumberland sausages, mashed potato and onion gravy. Pies have always been a staple part of the British diet, so watch out for the steak and kidney pie served with mashed potatoes. Fish of the day produces treats for the enthusiast, but as befits the title one of the highlights is the grilled beef chop with Bearnaise sauce and - of course, chips.

Simple dishes such as corned beef hash with a fried egg, or their noted salmon fishcakes with sorrel sauce are often the best, particularly if haste is driving, so often the case in these hectic times. A good array of side dishes yields such treats as French bean salad, new potatoes, bread and olives or Savoy cabbage, the Rolls Royce of its kind.

Amongst the desserts expect to find Eton Mess, rum and raisin cheesecake and delicious fruit crumble with custard.

A sensible un-flashy wine list comes up with such jewels as a very decent rosé from the Bekaa Valley, numerous bottles by the glass including champagne. A safe rule of thumb used to be Oz for red, Kiwi for white, but those lines become more blurred as New World winemakers plug into the expertise of the long established sources, particularly France. Try the Pinot Noir Tuatara Bay from New Zealand or the Foundstone un-oaked Chardonnay from Australia.

There is hot chocolate fondant with vanilla ice cream to finish, rice pudding with apricot jam, or a good plate of traditional cheeses. Quality Chop House is place for those who respect quality, unfussy food, and convivial surroundings.

Their excellent Website should prove to be a useful source of further information.