Quayside

Fusco's of Whitby have been selling top-notch fish and chips (Stuart Fusco was awarded the title of UK No.1 Young Fish Frier of the Year 2004-5 and they won Les Routiers Cafe of the Year 2005) in Whitby since 1968, given the long-standing love affair between the British and their fish and chips, which has survived powerful counter-attractions from other lands, this is no mean feat. It all started in Pickering, also in Yorkshire, way back in the 1950s, at a time when the effects of a long war were still apparent and there was an even greater desire for this nutritious and much-admired national dish.

In 1968 the Fusco family decided to move from Pickering to be closer to the natural home of their chief product, and the ancient town of Whitby was chosen, mainly because the Royal Fisheries was up for sale. The Royal Fisheries had once been selling some of the best fish and chips to be had, though at the date of purchase it had been closed down for some time.

But the fish is only part of the equation. Those who fondly suppose that any old potato will do to make chips could not be more wrong. Fusco's chips are made from carefully selected potatoes, where the main stipulation is quality.

At the Royal Fisheries there is a lively take-away with an equally busy 45 seat café attached.

The days when there was a notion around that fish and chips could be eaten anywhere that was handy to the deep fat frier, with bottles of gelatinous substances available, are largely gone. They certainly are at Fusco's, if indeed they ever existed, and their Quayside Restaurant, run by Stuart Fusco, he of the Award, are palaces by comparison.

Fusco's took over the Quayside in 1999, since when it has grown and prospered. Viewed from the outside in the clear light from the North Sea it looks the very epitome of a smart seaside licensed restaurant, which is exactly what it is. There are 80 covers, the fish and chips offered are of the same high quality as on their other sites, and it also has a take-away section.

There is a children's menu, changing facilities and high chairs. Thoughtfully arranged facilities also mean that disabled customers have their difficulties minimised. And to cap it all there is air-conditioning.

More recently the Quayside building was enhanced by the addition of Bar 7, which could be said to be Fish and Chips with knobs on. The décor is chic, and as well as a fully equipped cocktail bar there is music, light refreshments, quality drinks and 'wait for it' Fusco's Fish and Chips, of the same high quality.

This is a place where you can relax and eat in comfort without being hassled any time from 11 am until 7 pm (6 on Saturdays), though the bar itself stays open until 11 pm. For those seeking an escape from the hurly burly of Whitby, Bar 7 is a godsend, a haven of civility and bonhomie.

It is refreshing to see a family business like Fusco's doing an update on fish and chips. Time moves one, and whilst few would want to see the essential earthiness of this great national dish turned into something that was untrue to its origins, Fusco's have got it absolutely right and deserve every bit of the success they are so obviously reaping.

For further details, including their menu, I would suggest a visit to their Website.