Queens Head Inn, The

Here is one of those English pubs that should be given a protection order to safeguard it against the forces that combine to reduce proper pubs to hellholes full of all the features that accountants think make money. The word 'proper' just about sums up everything that makes the Queen's Head what it is, and the fact that it has been run by a proper family for over 20 years is a very good start. So let's hear it for the Queen's Head and pubs like it.

Inside customers are greeted by vaulted ceilings, plenty of adapted wood fittings including two bank counters, at last given a useful purpose in life, one mahogany the other walnut, wood burning stoves, all described in The Daily Telegraph as "a cathedral of beer". Children are welcome, but not after 8.30pm, and given disruptive behaviour before that time are threatened by sale into slavery - I think management are jesting on that issue, but hope springs eternal.

Starters include smoked mackerel and horseradish, pan fried soft herring roes on toast, prawn cocktail, or smoked salmon, all served with generous amounts of granary or chunky white bread. Mains dishes feature Jamie Wickens' ham, eggs and French fries, homemade lasagne, leek and haddock Mornay and there's homemade curry of the day for those who cannot survive for more than few hours without it, except that this is likely to set new standards in the matter of Indian food. Vegetarians are not forgotten.

Puddings come up with spotted dick, chocolate fudge cake and banoffi pie, all home made of course. The wine list offers 16 very credible wines, all well under £20, all by the bottle or glass, small, medium or large. The real ale men will be in seventh heaven.

There are really only two words left to say - go there.