Queens, The

One of the well known character pubs that form part of Geronimo Inns, a small but gifted group of enlightened pubs that maintain high standards and a good share of the 'vision thing' without becoming in the least bit stereotyped. A lively atmosphere envelopes small and large groups in the true style of a pub dining room with its distinctive smells, signs, sounds and taste. Some pubs spend endless time and money in trying to create this elusive aura, whilst in others it just happens naturally. Enter The Queens, with manager Lee McDonagh, ably supported by Head Chef Felix Halanzy.

Two menus operate here, with lunch served from 12.00 to 3.00pm Monday to Friday, ands 12.00 to 5pm on Saturday. Starters offer soup of the day with granary bread, goats' cheese with slow roast tomato and red onion tart or home cured gravadlax with rye bread and grain mustard dressing. Plum chutney accompanies a chicken liver parfait with rosemary and olive toast.

Nowadays everybody seems to be in to properly aged beef and at The Queens char grilled 21 day matured rib eye steak is served with proper hand cut chips. Mr Young's beer has been given the privilege of providing the liquid for the batter surrounding a nice bit of haddock fillet, with more hand cut chips, fresh tartar and pea puree. So many different types of sausage have emerged on the scene in recent years, some of them stuffed with perfectly palatable but in my view highly inappropriate 'extras', as if there aren't enough of those in them already. But be thankful that Cumberland sausages, always some of the best, have largely survived this process and here they are, grilled and served with wholegrain mustard mash and red onion jus.

A range of punchy sandwiches provide tasty light meals between two pieces of bread or crusty bloomer, served with yet more handcut chips.

The second menu explores the possibilities of more leisurely eating over dinner, with starters of parma ham, marinated aubergine, pepper, courgette and artichokes with artisan bread, or cured salmon with tequila and lime, beetroot and vodka, and gravadlax with rye bread.

Main courses could offer a char grilled lamb steak with Mediterranean vegetables and balsamic new potatoes. Mutton enjoys Royal support, and with good reason, yet the public perception of this tasty dish is more than slightly foxed, which is probably why it does not appear on the menu here, as diners-out pursue the lamb thing. Risotto is another dish that does not get all that good a press, but done as it is here using asparagus, shaved parmesan and poached egg it achieves a new level of attraction.

John Clevely, whose son, Rupert, is the guiding spirit of Geronimo Inns also just happens to be a Master of Wine, with predictable results when it comes to the all important matter of a Wine List. Instead of the usual often dull titling, we are offered here aromatic fruity whites, fruit driven reds, new world champions and crisp cool whites. I mean even if I wasn't gagging for a drink anyway I jolly soon would be with titles like that. Nice too, to see a decent pudding wine on offer, a Muscat de Baumes de Venise 2003 at a very reasonable £17.50 a bottle or £5 a glass, but then this is one of the hallmarks of  Clevely's Lists - interest and quality at incredible value, surely one of the reasons why people undertake serious travel to come to The Queens at Primrose Hill.