If there was a definitive heading of 'innovative British' it would surely go to Rafters where Marcus Lane and Michael Sabin produce a regularly changing menu of dishes which, whilst often displaying their origins, have had a pair of intelligent and creative minds applied to them to great advantage. Take a starter of steamed asparagus between slices of lightly toasted brioche, delicately laced with truffle oil and served with a lemon and herb hollandaise, and you will have some idea of what they are about. There is a wealth of difference between messing about with food for the sake of it and applying artistry and intuitive care; little room is left for doubt at Rafters. These principles apply throughout with a pudding such as white chocolate mousse, served with a wild berry compote and milk chocolate sauce. The wine list is well set out with useful tasting notes and low, low prices. Monday and Wednesday you are welcome to bring your own wine in return for a modest corkage of £3.

No children under 5 years.