Railway, The

One of the more sedate restaurant reviewers recently made the discovery that some of the best restaurant food to be had in Britain can be found in the North, by which they meant largely Yorkshire, Lancashire, the North East and Cumbria; that is 'oop North'.

Those blessed with a rather wider appreciation of the gastronomic world than the Home Counties fell about with mirth as this well known 'secret' was revealed, and doubtless some of them had in mind The Railway at Euxton. Such is the speed of change these days that it does not take long to transform a clapped out old boozer into a place of charisma and compelling attraction, fuelled by food and drink of exceptional quality, which is exactly what has happened here. Not for nothing have they just been given the Newcomer of the Year Award 2008/2009.

In 2009 they received the Highest Quality Assured Award from the Lancashire and Blackpool Tourist Board Taste Lancashire Scheme, this places the Railway into the Top 5 establishments in Lancashire, supporting the other awards that they have achieved over the past 2 years.

Any restaurant that is highly selective about its suppliers gets my vote, the moré so when their website goes into close detail on the subject, including some names that have made it nationally. Then we turn to the subject of the children, always an emotive question in places largely populated by adults, where the little dears are all too often admitted then left with nothing to do except toy with their plastic fish fingers as they listen to their elders holding forth about the cost of educating them. As if they cared!

So in between enjoying their own robust menu children at The Railway can drive a train through Tokyo, join Thomas the Tank Engine or build their own track layout.

A menu of generous proportions offers amongst its starters that British infusion of an imperial past, kedgeree with all the trappings, fresh seasonal soup with fresh hand cut bread, or Fleetwood Dock organic salmon. Such is the generosity of the helpings that those not afflicted with great hunger have been known to survive on a starter course alone.

The char-grill uses Hereford and Limosin cross bred beef, and Hesketh salt marsh lamb supplies the cutlets. Amongst other main dishes the British Ploughman's brings together more mouthwatering ingredients than there's space to mention here. Bury black pudding is an essential part of the quite superb mixed grill, and their fisherman's pie is worth a generous detour should you have missed junction 28 as you head north up the M6.

Amongst the desserts expect to find burnt raspberry Cambridge cream, sticky toffee pudding, apple and rhubarb crumble and, of course, Mrs Kirkham's soft Lancashire cheese. Their wine list, gathered from around the world, offers what 95% of the population would be very happy with, at restrained prices and with plenty by the glass.

Whoever Susan is, her eponymous farmhouse fudge goes remarkably well with some decent coffee. Yes, there's no doubt whatsoever that up North they know how to keep folk filled with food and laughter, two things in life that are inseparable and essential.

Check on their Website for further details - particularly of their current special offers - seasonal menus and heart warming reviews.