Current thinking seems to suggest that spices and hot flavoured food are beneficial to the human system, a sentiment that hardened curry fiends have long supported. It comes as no surprise therefore to discover that places like Rajpoot are doing very nicely thank you, though in their case it may well also have something to do with the approach which they adopt. This is essentially to meet, as best they can, the expectations of the customer and it is the foundation upon which many successful restaurants are built, simplistic though it may appear.

A quick scan through the menu will show that the old favourites are all assembled. Dishes arrive exuding careful preparation and thoroughness and the accoutrements of eating ensure that customers feel good even before the food arrives at table. Staff appear genuinely eager to please and the cellars in which the restaurant is located offer an unusual slant to Asian eating.

One might well say that the Chowdhury family have done it again but that would oversimplify an operation that is well honed and closely managed. The wine list meets the menu well.