Red Barn, The

The Red Barn has the virtue of being one of the Geronimo group of inns, composed of pubs that are exciting without being overpowering, standards all round are high without being oppressive, and a warm welcome is guaranteed. After that it's largely up to you!

Distinguished by having its own farm shop next door, trading under the name of Snowtes Farm Shop, it would be less than natural if a good selection of the produce on sale there did not finds its way into the Red Barn kitchen. Meanwhile you can start the day at the Shop with a Farmhouse breakfast that will set you up for whatever awaits, or there's smoked salmon and scrambled eggs, bacon butties or croissant and preserves.

Meanwhile life is stirring at The Red Barn and lunch is only a short way off with new Head Chef Ivo and his team flexing their culinary muscles. Cauliflower soup with spiced shrimps is a good start, and the wild rabbit terrine with pickled beetroot or grilled English asparagus and a pan fried duck egg call on the surrounding countryside. From the sea ½ pint of shell-on prawns is blessed with a juicy marie rose sauce. Goat's cheese may be an acquired taste for some but made into a mousse, served with salad and toast it takes a lot of resisting.

Main courses at The Red Barn are not for the faint-hearted unless you count a free range Caesar salad served with a soft poached egg. After that look for the Aberdeen Angus beef and Cornish ale pie served with spring greens and mash, or a homemade beef burger with relish and chips. One of the best dishes on the menu in my opinion is the warm salad of ham hock with toasted hazelnuts and apple and cider vinaigrette.

Change of mood, soft lights and a more relaxed atmosphere as the evening arrives, g&ts and other relaxants fly across the bar and a spot of dinner beckons. Starters from the sea lead the way with a Dorset crab tart, whitebait and shell-on prawns duo with some more help from marie rose. Spring risotto, or salad of smoked trout with orange and watercress can both be taken as main courses or starters.

Those who like their offal will revel in grilled calves' liver with crispy bacon, onion rings and mustard sauce, or there could be fillet of Pollock with ratte potatoes, salsify and a green peppercorn sauce. However, the highpoint of the day for some might be a whole free range chicken done in tarragon and white wine, a dish served for two people.

Every Saturday and Sunday from 12.30 to 4.30ish Landlord Tommy can be seen doing his impersonation of Barbie time on a sun-washed Caribbean beach where all are welcome, the value is great and the homemade burgers and locally made sausages are crying out for appreciation. A lively social programme is at the root of this successful local with a difference, where the hearts are as warm as the red side of the wine list.