Red Fort, The

Named after Delhi's majestic 17th century Red Fort, this establishment is one of the original Indian restaurants in London to break free from the mould. When it opened 18 years ago on Dean Street in Soho, it was probably the first one that contradicted the stereo-typical view of Asian eateries, and, it was the first to offer the real cooking of India.

Here you can expect more unusual choices from a whole range of regional biryanis to slow cooked tender lamb shanks, in a wonderfully aromatic broth, from the luxurious, like lobster steamed in a delicate sauce of mace, cumin and saffron, to the slightly more mundane, such as with lamb with ginger, red chillies and yoghurt.

For first time visitors The Red Fort Feast is a good place to start, offering a carefully balanced selection of some of the finest dishes on the menu. After a refit in late 2001, its many fans feel that they have the look just right. As well as the 'a la carte', there is a cheaper bar menu available.