Restaurant 23

Leamington Spa always strikes me as one of those places that are full of eastern promise - well, if not eastern, at least promise. As far as the restaurant business is concerned some very interesting enterprises have taken off there, and now another has been added with the arrival (late 2006) of Peter and Antje Knibb. Both have worked in Michelin starred restaurants under such culinary notables as Simon Haigh at Mallory Court and Jun Tanaka at Pearl Restaurant, London.

A restyling by designer Emma McIvor has resulted in nicely understated feelings of luxury, comfort and style, creating an immediate sense of confidence and relaxation.

Peter's relatively short career shows signs of meteoric progress, and I have a feeling that at the end of this review I shall be urging you to place Restaurant 23 on your 'One to Watch' list. The serious stuff was a spell at Chez Nico preceded by time well spent at Claridges under John Williams. The fun bit was six months on a luxury yacht before jumping ship for the Gucci private family yacht. More recently very relevant experience in London has proved of real value in establishing himself in the Midlands.

Well located in the centre of town the restaurant draws an egalitarian customer base who, attracted by a combination of excellent food and competitive prices tend to treat Restaurant 23 as their neighbourhood hideout. Peter's international travels have moulded a broad approach to the cuisine, with some interesting little quirks that betray a sense of culinary genius.

For dinner expect to find char grilled tuna with red peppers, olives, capers and anchovies, roasted pigeon breast with Jerusalem artichoke, potato fondants and quail egg. Pan fried hand-dived scallops are presented accompanied by baby carrots, cardamom, cress and some of that luscious Clonakilty black pudding from Twomey's of Cork. Seafood is a speciality, keep a lookout for red mullet with almond and rosemary crust, saffron marinated vegetables and cauliflower puree. Venison is properly cooked with juniper and black pepper, and served with butternut squash gratin and sugar snap peas.

A poached fig in vanilla syrup is served with iced nougat, and a wonderful combination comes in the form of good supple ginger bread with roasted plum and Advocaat ice cream.

In my experience Leamington Spa is still one of those places where people really do do lunch. 21 has been quick to respond to this admirable practice with a 2 or 3 course lunch at £13 and £17 respectively. A choice of four starters might include smoked fillets of sardines, followed by pork tenderloin or pan fried sea trout, with the great cleanser in the form of a rhubarb crème brulee with rhubarb sorbet.

Yes, I think there is little doubt about it - an entry in your little black book is warmly recommended.

The menu responds well to the seasons and changes are posted on their Website, which is only a click away.