Restaurant 23

Leamington Spa may strike you as one of those places that are full of eastern promise - well, if not eastern, at least promise. As far as the restaurant business is concerned some very interesting enterprises have taken off there, and another has been added with the arrival of Peter and Antje Knibb. Both have worked in Michelin starred restaurants under such culinary notables as Simon Haigh at Mallory Court and Jun Tanaka at Pearl Restaurant, London.

A restyling by designer Emma McIvor has resulted in nicely understated feelings of luxury, comfort and style, creating an immediate sense of confidence and relaxation.

Peter's relatively short career shows signs of meteoric progress, and at the end of this review the urge to place Restaurant 23 on your 'One to Watch' list will be stronger. The serious stuff was a spell at Chez Nico preceded by time well spent at Claridge?s under John Williams. The fun bit was six months on a luxury yacht before jumping ship for the Gucci private family yacht. Some very relevant experience in London has proved of real value in establishing himself in the Midlands.

Well located in the centre of town the restaurant draws an egalitarian customer base who, attracted by a combination of excellent food and competitive prices tend to treat Restaurant 23 as their neighbourhood hideout. Peter's international travels have moulded a broad approach to the cuisine, with some interesting little quirks that betray a sense of culinary genius.

For dinner expect to find hot smoked Loch Duart salmon with crispy horseradish and herb risotto, and ravioli of free range pork belly with crispy pork skin. Salad of hand dived scallops are presented accompanied by mango and avocado salsa and coriander oil. Seafood is a speciality; keep a lookout for pan-fried John Dory with pea and pernod puree, crushed new potatoes and tomato and sardine dressing. Loin of local Ragley Estate venison arrives with red cabbage, port poached pears, parsnip, and black pepper and star anise jus.

Lime leaf curd tart is served with glazed meringue and poached raspberries, and a wonderful combination comes in the form of baked vanilla cheesecake with blackberry compote and blackberry sorbet.

Leamington Spa still seems to be one of those places where people really do lunch. Restaurant 23 has been quick to respond to this admirable practice with a 2 or 3 course lunch at £16 and £19 respectively. A choice of three starters might include a spicy puy lentil soup, followed by pan-fried dry aged 8oz rib eye or braised free range pork belly, with the great cleanser in the form of plum and pear crumble with vanilla ice cream.

Yes, there is little doubt about it - an entry in your little black book is warmly recommended. The menu responds well to the seasons and changes are posted on their Website, which is only a click away.