Restaurant 23

Leamington Spa always strikes me as one of those places that are full of eastern promise - well, if not eastern, at least promise. As far as the restaurant business is concerned some very interesting enterprises have taken off there, and now another has been added with the arrival  of Peter and Antje Knibb. Both have worked in Michelin starred restaurants under such culinary notables as Simon Haigh at Mallory Court and Jun Tanaka at Pearl Restaurant, London.

A restyling by designer Emma McIvor has resulted in nicely understated feelings of luxury, comfort and style, creating an immediate sense of confidence and relaxation.

Peter's relatively short career shows signs of meteoric progress, and at the end of this review the urge to place Restaurant 23 on your 'One to Watch' list will be stronger. The serious stuff was a spell at Chez Nico preceded by time well spent at Claridges under John Williams. The fun bit was six months on a luxury yacht before jumping ship for the Gucci private family yacht. More recently very relevant experience in London has proved of real value in establishing himself in the Midlands.

Well located in the centre of town the restaurant draws an egalitarian customer base who, attracted by a combination of excellent food and competitive prices tend to treat Restaurant 23 as their neighbourhood hideout. Peter's international travels have moulded a broad approach to the cuisine, with some interesting little quirks that betray a sense of culinary genius.

For dinner expect to find seared tuna with red peppers, olives, capers and anchovies, and pan-fried foie gras with poached rhubarb, rocket and walnut salad. Seared hand-dived scallops are presented accompanied by parsley puree, roasted garlic velouté and pancetta crisp. Seafood is a speciality; keep a lookout for wild sea bass with crushed potatoes, tomato fondue, crab beignet and caviar. Venison is properly cooked with juniper berry crust, and served with braised red cabbage, squash puree and roasted root vegetables.

Roasted pineapple in lime syrup is served with chocolate mousse and passion fruit seeds, and a wonderful combination comes in the form of walnut sponge with roasted plums, vanilla ice cream and red wine syrup.

In my experience Leamington Spa is still one of those places where people really do lunch. Restaurant 23 has been quick to respond to this admirable practice with a 2 or 3 course lunch at £13 and £18 respectively. A choice of three starters might include smoked fillets of mackerel, followed by pork tenderloin or pan fried Pollack, with the great cleanser in the form of a apple sponge with ricotta and orange sorbet and caramelized apple puree.

Yes, there is little doubt about it - an entry in your little black book is warmly recommended. The menu responds well to the seasons and changes are posted on their Website, which is only a click away.