Leamington Spa may strike you as one of those places that are full of eastern promise - well, if not eastern, at least promise. As far as the restaurant business is concerned some very interesting enterprises have taken off there, and another has been added with the arrival of Peter and Antje Knibb. Both have worked in Michelin starred restaurants under such culinary notables as Simon Haigh at Mallory Court and Jun Tanaka at Pearl Restaurant, London.

A restyling by designer Emma McIvor has resulted in nicely understated feelings of luxury, comfort and style, creating an immediate sense of confidence and relaxation.

Peter's relatively short career shows signs of meteoric progress, and at the end of this review the urge to place Restaurant 23 on your 'One to Watch' list will be stronger. The serious stuff was a spell at Chez Nico preceded by time well spent at Claridge's under John Williams. The fun bit was six months on a luxury yacht before jumping ship for the Gucci private family yacht. Some very relevant experience in London has proved of real value in establishing himself in the Midlands.

Well located in the centre of town the restaurant draws an egalitarian customer base who, attracted by a combination of excellent food and competitive prices tend to treat Restaurant 23 as their neighbourhood hideout. Peter's international travels have moulded a broad approach to the cuisine, with some interesting little quirks that betray a sense of culinary genius.

For dinner expect to find organic salmon and Cornish crab ravioli with a bisque and lemon grass velouté, and seared hand dived scallops, capers, parsley, cauliflower, crispy bacon and red veined sorrel. Wild mushroom consommé is accompanied by truffle gnocchi, parmesan crisp and poached quail?s egg. Seafood is a speciality; keep a lookout for pan-fried wild sea bass with coriander cress, curried mussel and coconut broth. Roasted loin of venison arrives with butternut squash gratin, braised red cabbage, chestnuts and port sauce.

Set nutmeg duck egg custard is served with marinated Agen prunes, green apple sorbet, almond and orange tuile, and a wonderful combination comes in the form of ginger bread with banana parfait, crispy filo pastry and crème fraîche sorbet.

Leamington Spa still seems to be one of those places where people really do lunch. Restaurant 23 has been quick to respond to this admirable practice with a 1, 2 or 3 course lunch at £13.50, £16.50 and £19 respectively. A choice of three starters might include roasted parsnip and apple soup with curry oil, followed by braised venison bourguignon, potato puree, salsify and baby carrots, with the great cleanser in the form of marinated prunes, cinnamon ice cream and apple sponge.

Yes, there is little doubt about it - an entry in your little black book is warmly recommended. The menu responds well to the seasons and changes are posted on their Website, which is only a click away.