Formerly a haunt of smugglers, the inn has now become ultra-respectable and it is doubtful if its former habitués would so much as recognise it, much less appreciate what it now has to offer. Standards are high throughout and though a meal is pricey, it is a small price to pay for such wonderful food. You can have the customary three-course meal or really push the boat out and go for the seven-course gourmet that, the instructions say, can be chosen under the element of surprise.

The whole process is taken seriously and such distractions as mobile phones, pipes, cigars etc are firmly banished to the bar. Main courses on the a la carte could include Spiced honey glazed duck breast, accompanied by baked Peking duck leg and sausage, caramelised orange, French beans and sherry vinegar sauce; gently poached fillets of brill, laid on baked celeriac fondant served with seared langoustines, spinach and baby leeks finished with roast chicken reduction or roast breast of farm chicken, spiked with fresh truffle, placed on dauphinoise potato with glazed shallots, wild mushrooms and complemented by a cep cream and truffle oil foam. They boast a well-conceived wine list with house wine at £13.50.