Whilst the Isle of Harris may not be at the top of everybody's holiday list, by such exclusion they are depriving themselves of one of the finest culinary treats that Scotland has to offer. For of such quality are the dishes cooked and served by Katie MacAskill in the remote but hauntingly beautiful location of Ardhasaig, now upgraded by Visit Scotland to a small hotel. No matter what is done there you can be sure it will be done well and to high standards. Not unnaturally this includes the wonderful food that Katie and her team offer to their guests, whether they be resident or passers by.

A starter might consist of roasted butternut squash soup with herb scones, almost certainly freshly baked, followed by an intermediate course, often of seafood, that might well be pan fried Isle of Harris scallops with leek and vermouth cream, or locally caught lobster grilled and served with fennel and dill cream. A main course of fillet of Amhuinnsuidehe venison with fig and redcurrant gravy and a variety of interesting vegetables, or pan fried duck breast with shallots and plums laced with port precedes a chocolate roulade accompanied by crème anglais and passion fruit.

Even given the unforgettable scenery of the Western Isles, I can think of no better reason for going to visit them than to enjoy the quality of cooking at Ardhasaig. An international galaxy of tributes supports this view. One hopes that things will always stay the same there, but it is in the nature of things that they don't. How will Ardhasaid ever be any better?