Restaurant at Barnsley House

Barnsley House is an exquisite stone-built Gloucestershire country house, dating from 1697, more recently the home of Rosemary Verey, the distinguished garden designer who gave many years of her life to the gardens before she died in 2001.

Now transformed into a country house hotel, activity at Barnsley tends to focus on the dining room, served by Franco Taruschio, formerly of the Walnut Tree Inn at Abergavenny. Franco has set out to combine Italian tradition with local produce and ingredients, an ambition in which he has succeeded with his customary flair. Starters could include lobster alla sarda, parma ham with pear and coriander or zucchini soup with prawns and olive oil. A pasta course can be used as an additional remove, a starter or even as a main. One of the most notable pasta courses is the vincisgrassi maceratcese, an 18th century origin baked pasta with porcini, ham and truffles. For mains, the rack of lamb with deep fried peas, beans and artichokes makes an interesting blend, not to say a substantial dish. However many fall for the attractions of Lady Llanover's salted duck, cold sliced duck served with pickled kumquat and gooseberry. The mixed ices that follow, tea, rhubarb and strawberry have all the flavour and delicacy of the home made product coupled with ingredients from the garden.

Service and locale are of the high order one might expect, with enough formality to make eating there a special occasion, whilst remaining friendly and attentive. For three courses the price of £46 does not seem unreasonable given the quality and care.