A 15th century coaching inn of considerable charm, renowned for its friendliness and warm welcome. Eating is done less formally in the Bar or more so in the intimate and romantic dining room.

In the latter starters could be King scallops with a tomato and broad bean salsa, a gateau of homecured salmon, crab and avocado, or for a real treat the Bear Caesar salad with Abergavenny ham, anchovies and quails eggs.

In a country where Black Beef is, dare one say it, almost commonplace it is worth looking at alternatives, one of which might well be the hock of Welsh lamb, slowly braised with bacon and tiny onions.

For vegetarians there are poppy seed pancakes of Welsh goat's cheese, chargrilled aubergine and sun-dried tomatoes.

I love the Welsh for many things, not least their skill with desserts, such as Bramley apple pudding with brioche and vanilla ice cream, or a signature dish for the Bear of bread and butter pudding made with rum and bananas and served with brown ice cream.

A well travelled wine list does justice to all concerned and quality house wine is on offer at £8.95. Would that there were more hotels around like the Bear where the aspirations of the customer so obviously head the agenda.