There is about Boath House a special atmosphere of peace and calm that extends throughout all its various activities, including the spa and works of art created by 30 or so Highland and Island artists, who draw inspiration from the superb setting of the house. The gardens provide ample produce for Chef Charles Lockley who has built up a team in the kitchens that offers a mature but unfussy approach to their subject. A five-course dinner is offered in the immaculately presented dining room with its terracotta colour scheme and faultless napery and cutlery. The meal is preceded by exciting appetisers and home-baked bread, followed by soup and usually a fish dish which could be a scallop, lobster and salmon tortellini poached in lobster bisque and served with a pea veloute. Main courses that make a frequent appearance on the changing menu are roasted haunch of venison on a celeriac puree with spiced red cabbage and a red wine jus, or a whole Dover sole with a creamy cep sauce, smoky-flavoured artichoke hearts and crushed potatoes. A cheese course brings such Scottish delicacies as Dunsyre Blue or Bishop Kennedy to the table, followed by one of their outstanding desserts, possibly the slow- roasted white peaches with a golden mango ice cream.

The wine list favours France and includes good choices at prices that will not cripple you. It is not difficult to see why Boath House has built up such a following. Viv Lumdsen writing in Scottish Field says, "Charles Lockley's cooking is superb and his dinner menu reflected the use of natural produce, internationally interpreted. If I lived within a 20 mile radius of Boath House Hotel and Spa I'd be there as often as my child benefit allowed".

Reviewed by Michael Tebbutt