Restaurant at Brockencote Hall

Stepping into the classic interior of this extremely smart Worcestershire hotel with restaurant is rather akin to crossing the English Channel to a La Petit Francais, with every aspect of the glorious country house setting perfectly presented to ensure complete satisfaction. No detail is left untended, the coming together of all the parts has been thoroughly thought through, with a string of awards and citations to support the reputation so richly deserved by owners Joseph and Alison Petitjean.

Each of the 17 elegantly appointed and very individual rooms has a voluptuous air of spaciousness and light that serves as a background for every possible degree of comfort, many with long views to the Malvern Hills; four posters and whirlpool baths feature in some.

It would be unreasonable to expect that the cuisine should move too far from the traditional French, though some nods have been made in the direction of the region and the English seasons. Elegance, with everything exactly as it should be, singles out the dining room as one of the high spots of this beautiful house, with immaculate napery and table settings to set the stage for the pleasures to come.

Head Chef John Sherry will create a surprise six-course degustation menu to order after consultation, supported if so wished by the sommelier's recommendations for a glass of wine with each course, a wonderful treat for a special occasion.

However a range of other menus offer an enviable flexibility, of which the á la carte is a worthy example. Starters might consist of Isle of Skye King scallops or organic oak smoked Shetland salmon with capers, young salad leaves and citrus dressing.

From Brixham comes a fillet of line-caught sea bass, with olive oil crushed potato, leek and green asparagus and black truffle, while the fillet of prime mature British beef is accompanied by wilted spinach, seasonal mushrooms, potato croquette and port jus.

Amongst the desserts expect to see a hot soufflé of the day, with homemade ice cream, 'gariguette' strawberry and red berry mousse and gourmandise au chocolat. Lovers of cheese will delight in the selection of eight French and English varieties, with quite the best homemade chutney.

A daily changing lunch menu is available, together with a very good value table d'hote and, of course, a simply splendid Sunday lunch choice that certainly does not ignore sirloin of beef but adds a number of attractive alternatives.

The wine list is without doubt worth the visit alone. The French are much better at matters such as wines by the glass and half bottles than we are, and the range of countries and regions from which their cellar has been culled is truly awesome.

As with any first rate restaurant menus change and offers are made - click on their Website for news of these and other developments at Brockencote Hall.