In some of the guides The Carrick Lodge Hotel is taken literally, and is listed under 'Lodges and Motels'. I have nothing against such places, use them myself occasionally, but nothing could be much further from the truth as far as this quality family hotel is concerned. A handsome stone house in one of the pleasant residential roads leading out of Ayr, the Lodge glows with warm light, particularly on a wet March evening that purports to be part of Easter Sunday. The warmth continues with the welcome at the door by Jim Murdoch or his wife. Jim was formerly General Manager to Bill Costley, owner of Highgrove, Lochgreen and other notable restaurants in the area and the touch of someone who knows his business is apparent wherever you turn.

In the restaurant a jolly crowd made up of all ages mingles happily together, a family celebration in one corner, a spooney couple tucked away in another, and there are few empty tables. Service is attentive and well-timed. Cullen Skink, that premier Scottish dish, could not be ignored and it turned out to be just as good as one could have hoped for, with the right degree of creaminess and flavours well retained. Cream of carrot and coriander soup received a rapturous welcome on the other side of the table.

The smoked Finnan haddock gratin, another Scottish favourite, came with creamed potatoes, Ayrshire bacon and Arran cheese, and was a constant welcoming voyage of discovery, all the contents cooked to perfection and combined with a great consistency. A choice of ten main courses also included traditional roast rib-eye beef, spinach and ricotta cannelloni and coconut coated chicken stuffed with banana and bacon and a Thai curry sauce. A chunky 24 bin wine list offers four good House wines at £12.50 with some well-travelled companions mostly under the £20 mark. I loved the reference to a wet-woolly nosed Chablis.