Restaurant at Castleman Hotel

Annie Heritage (20 July 2007)

Picture yourself walking into the panelled hall of an elegant dowry house. You are greeted by friendly, courteous staff into an airy period drawing room and seated on a comfortable sofa for an aperitif. If the weather is cool, a fire may be crackling away merrily in the original fireplace. Or perhaps you'd prefer to peruse the menu in the cosy flagstoned bar, or the stunning wood-panelled smoking room (now non-smoking!)

Once seated at your table in the elegant dining room, take time to admire the watercolours adorning the walls or if it is daytime, gaze over the tranquil gardens. The menu changes daily and you will be pondering for some time over the fresh and seasonal offerings - perhaps some Lyme Bay scallops to start, then a locally caught venison pie, sea bass or an imaginative vegetarian choice? And don't forget to leave some room for dessert - homemade fresh strawberry ice-cream perhaps? Or exquisite meringues, meltingly gooey on the inside and lightly crisp on the outside?

Once satiated, retire to the drawing room for a freshly brewed tea or coffee and if you can manage it, a complimentary home made chocolate truffle. The food is always wonderful - fresh, seasonal and mostly locally supplied ingredients are transformed into delicious dishes, often simple but perfectly matched. The staffs make you feel like a long-awaited special guest and the service is friendly, efficient and unobtrusive; nothing is ever too much trouble.

All in all, dining at the Castleman feels luxurious, indulgent but never pretentious. And it has to be said that the prices are extremely reasonable. It really is an experience not to be missed - whether it's a romantic dinner for two, a family get-together or a relaxing Sunday lunch, you are sure of superb food and a warm welcome. I cannot recommend it highly enough.