Restaurant at Cavens

The thing I tend to notice amongst Scottish hotels and restaurants is that, whilst there may be less of them per square mile, the ones that are there generally carry a higher percentage of quality than, shall we say, other parts of the globe not so very far away.

Cavens is no exception to this generalisation, presenting a small 4 star country house hotel of great character and charm that provides the perfect setting for short breaks, weddings and meetings. Formerly a privately owned manor house, it was bought by Jane and Angus Fordyce and now specialises in exclusive-use for private and corporate bookings.

Their reputation for cherishing their guests, no matter what their status, is well known, and locals rub shoulders comfortably with hotel residents and visitors alike.

Dumfries and Galloway is an area where rushing about is considered to be in bad taste, and the pace of life is geared to the seasons, the weather and personal whim. No wonder so many English make the transition across the border when it's time to take life a touch more easily. Not for nothing did the Romans name that great fascinating tidal estuary, the Solway Firth, with its mild climate, as they did - 'The Way of the Sun'.

The restaurant has received much acclaim over the years, with a reputation for an ever changing menu devised by Angus, who doubles up as Chef and proprietor that exploits the markets and the seasons to the full. With an AA Rosette, three Visit Scotland medallions, and recognition in the Best Guide to Scotland.

A typical menu might run along the lines of a salad of locally smoked duck breast or pan fried scallops with lime and vermouth, followed by sea bass roasted with white wine and fennel or rack of Galloway lamb in a thyme and oatmeal crust.

A notable finish to the meal could be pannacotta or cheeses from the Loch Arthur Estate, served with oatcakes by Corson of Castle Douglas, rounded off with coffee and chocolates made by Carswell of Kirkcudbright. Some notable single malts have found their way down from the Highlands, though sadly the locally distilled Bladnoch is now in scarce supply.

A relatively modest wine list covers an amazing amount of ground, with a number by the glass. Amongst the sparklers is a brut tradition by Antonin Truffer at a very modest £16.95, from New Zealand a rather interesting sauvignon blanc, Francesca Bay.

A Chilean cabernet sauvignon, Santa Ema, provides a commendable house wine, with glasses at £4.95, but beckoning from the upper end of the list is a 1983 Bordeaux from Chateau Sarget de Grand Larose. From the vineyards of the wine 'come-back-kid', South Africa, is a Delheim pinotage rose worthy of attention.

Beer drinkers will revel in the Galloway Gold, a very robust product of the vicinity, and Criffel ale, named after a local mountain does more than justice to the cause of organic products.

Service is of that delightful and cheerfully diffident variety so often found in Scotland, totally devoid of pretension and so welcome.

Visit their delightful Website to keep abreast of special offers and menu changes.