The Romans beat Combe Grove Manor to the site on the side of the delightfully named Brassknocker Hill, which only goes to prove the desire for a view, probably for different reasons, has been passed down the centuries.

Twelve miles away the Westbury White Horse is clearly visible, with the Limpley Stoke valley in between. The Romans would certainly have approved of the attention paid to the wellbeing of the human frame, high on the agenda of the Manor, with Jacuzzi baths, hydrospa beds and steam, and other little diversions to iron out the aches and creases.

Nor is the dining neglected. The dining room is a place of uninhibited luxury, starting perhaps with Cornish crab and ginger samosa with chilli lime jam. A whole roast baby seabass, with new season garlic and wild mushrooms makes for a blend of flavours, particularly as the garlic is treated with reserve.

The poached figs in ginger wine are an interesting completion to the meal, though this is when the pampering really starts as you move to the Grand Drawing Room for the supporting cast of cigars, vintage ports, fine brandies and some good malts.

Less formal arrangements can also be enjoyed in Eden where an essentially brasserie menu maintains the same standards. An elegant wine list keeps pace with everything else, house wine at £12.95.