Even in a county renowned for its coastal beauty Corisande Manor is exceptional. Looking over a panorama of sea and estuary the Manor stands faintly resembling a German schloss, the sort of place one might expect to have dark tales of smuggling to tell.

The inner man is by no means neglected at this atmospheric paradise. A view is taken that the gourmet is ill-served in Cornwall and stringent efforts are made to reverse this perceived state of affairs. Virtually every item of prepared food is made within the hotel and local ingredients are invoked wherever possible and available. Dinner is a four course event starting with soup, chosen from amongst carrot and coriander, nettle, fish or chicken and almond to name but a few.

A choice from two starters is then offered, say kipper pate or crab parcels. Main courses field two, of which one is normally fish. This may be red mullet with a chive sauce and pork fillet in a cider sauce. Puddings come in threes, with a cheese board option and could include bread and butter pudding, mascarpone tart or pear ice cream (their own, of course).

The wine list is the work of a master and includes such novelties as a 1915 Madeira and some wonderful French vintages, and has won prestige awards. I would go so far as to say that it is worth going to Corisande for the wine list alone.