In days of yore you eat at either The George, The Stamford or The Crown in Stamford. Nowadays one is spoilt for choice though the Stamford Hotel is now a shopping venue, The George has never faltered and The Crown, after some difficult years is back in the race.

The new proprietors have made sure the dining room has not been neglected and predominantly English-inspired food holds centre-stage. Starters may include a field mushroom filled with chutney and topped with grilled Rutland cheese, or a plate of freshly carved smoked salmon.

Main courses are well-tried and loved with the local lamb from Tallington safely grazed in a tasty shepherd's pie, in season the pot-roasted partridge, or wild rabbit with a three mustard sauce. Surprisingly there are no contributions from beneath the surface of nearby Rutland Water, but perhaps those will come later.

At the bar Timothy Taylor's Landlord and Adnams, together with a guest hand-pump ale make for traditional refreshment, backed up with a well-travelled wine list.