When the Monarch made it clear that Balmoral was her preferred Scottish redoubt it naturally became fashionable for others to follow suit and a veritable rash of large, comfortable and suitably baronial country houses began to appear on Deeside. The early arrivals had a wealth of extravagantly scenic sites from which to choose and Darroch Learg is no exception to this natural bounty. For nearly four decades it has been presided over with élan by the Franks family who have brought a high degree of confident management to the hotel. The homeliness of Darroch Learg combines with a well-concealed professionalism to offer the sort of Highland paradise, which Queen Victoria prized so strongly.

Whilst the cuisine is both modern and Scottish it never loses sight of its origins and the recently introduced six-course taster menu, pan-fried foie gras, scallops, seared and served with black pudding, saddle of roe deer, chocolate fondant and cheese bears eloquent testimony to this commitment. Other treats include cannelloni of lemon sole with tomato, herbs and smoked bacon, a ravioli of langoustine and crab, a classic lemon tart and fresh berries with a champagne sabayon and mascarpone ice cream.

An elegant wine list completes the pleasure, with house wine at £23, or £6.50 the glass, and a wide range of well-selected wines from around the world, with an emphasis on those from Bordeaux and Burgundy. For gourmets on the stalk in Scotland, Darroch Learg is not a place to be missed.