The country house hotel is very much a part of British life that has largely survived the vicissitudes of the hotel and catering business, sometimes with adverse effects when "old is beautiful - regardless" was allowed to become the mission statement.

Dunsley Hall was built for a Victorian shipping magnate with an extended family of 13 children so presumably somewhere pretty big was needed. No expense seems to have been spared and successive owners have cared for the place so that today's guests are still able to enjoy the same high standards.

The present owners, Bill and Carol Ward, run a tight ship, which is to say that it's difficult to fault any aspect of the business. This includes the dining room and its supporting kitchens. Following an amuse bouche of, say, homemade soup starters of carpaccio of venison or lobster and salmon terrine can be on the menu, and there is a complimentary sorbet before the main course.

This might be fillet of Whitby cod, roasted seabass or perhaps a fillet of Kettyle beef served with seasonal vegetables that could include new season asparagus and wild garlic mash. Desserts are a high spot; keep an eye open for the warm ginger parkin with brown sugar ice cream and port soaked figs, or baked Cornish yarg with quince and apple served on walnut bread.

For a consideration Chef will put together a tasting menu of your choice, and your children will delight to hear they have their own menu which carries items such as cod fillet fish fingers, and Chicago Town cheese and tomato pizza.

This is country house living in more than customary style. The rooms are beautifully furnished and equipped.