It is often said that the Borders is one of the least-known, yet most beautiful regions in Britain. This may have been more than partially due to the fact that decent watering holes were pretty thin on the ground, a state of affairs which happily is now largely a thing of the past. Edenwater House has made its contribution to this welcome renaissance and under the culinary influence of Jacqui Kelly has pulled in a raft of awards, well supported by personal recommendations. This is essentially a hotel but non-residents are welcome at dinner on Fridays and Saturdays, when a four course set dinner is the form. Typically this might consist of seared scallops and foie gras with mange tout, balsamic and chilli vinaigrette and coriander sauce, a subtle blend of flavours if ever there was one. There follows roast breast of guinea fowl stuffed with tarragon mosseline and wrapped in parma ham. This comes with braised leeks, stuffed mushrooms, Anna potatoes and the natural jus. A highpoint, in more ways than one could be the twice-baked Roquefort soufflé with mixed leaves, Muscat grapes and pecan nuts. To round off there could be a terrine of mango and tropical fruits with coconut cream and pineapple sauce.

Little wonder the awards have come tumbling in, but a popularity such as theirs is earned by more than the food alone, and the calm, unhurried service, a very muscular wine list and total country house/home atmosphere make Edenwater House a place to tell only your closest friends about.