Restaurant at Ednam House Hotel

Ednam House is one of life's institutions in the Borders, run by the Brooks family since 1928, and the location for some of the finest fishing to be had in Scotland. However, man cannot live by fish alone, even though it may be a temptation at times and Ralph Brooks sees to it that a broadly based menu of simplicity combined with local produce does the trick.

In a high dining room of undistracting charm expect to find lamb kidneys braised in tomato and garlic sauce, served with a potato scone, or some of the local award winning haggis with neeps and stovies.

A second course can serve as an interval dish, such as home-made lemon sorbet, or for those who have been pounding round the local acres all day, fillet of shark served with braised leeks, potato cake and crispy bacon.

Main course of a Tweed Valley steak, noisette of Ayrshire ham on a bed of green Spatzle with grain mustard sauce, or Highland venison gently casseroled and served with fresh tagliatelle stand out from the impressive range of dishes on offer, but still leave sufficient room for one of the supremely tempting home-made sweets, puddings, ice creams and sorbets, including a quite superb steamed syrup sponge.

And to crown it all the Savoury is alive and well in this temple to good living - just ask for the Welsh rarebit. The wine list is a delight, not only in content but also in prices that are quite stunningly kind to the pocket.