Restaurant at Four Seasons Hampshire

Four Seasons new presence in the south of England is now up and running, providing a new experience for those sybarites constantly on the prowl for something different. Not another attempt to recreate the country house experience, even if it is centred on a manor house that has been a home to Kings and Bishops for centuries, this is a modern hotel, with every luxury either already provided or on the way. The Seasons Restaurant offers Modern European cuisine, with a strong emphasis on local and organic produce. A typical starter could be a terrine of foie gras, goat's cheese and apple with pickled celeriac or local watercress soup with oysters. Follow with roasted sea bass with a casserole of squid and red wine and a fennel bouillon or seared local organic chicken on walnut risotto. Desserts are equally distinguished, perhaps baked Seville orange tart with fromage blanc sorbet, or preserved quince and rhubarb crème brulee.

The Seasons is backed up on a more informal basis by The Bistro, where all-day dining with an emphasis on traditional British dishes is very apparent. An interesting feature is the Kid's Gourmet Menu provided by the hotel. Any connection between most of the kids I have ever known and gourmet inclinations has been pretty circumstantial, but Four Seasons deserve full credit for taking this positive step - a certain Mr Oliver will surely approve. So whilst Dad is tucking in to the Organic beef and Hog's Back ale pie, Junior will be toying with the grilled chicken breast on creamy mushroom risotto. Sounds like a fair deal to me.

Executive Chef Jamie Jones is an established Four Seasons hand, who is quoted as saying "the one thing I wanted was real foodies" when asked about his staff recruitment policy. Given Four Seasons well-trailed and effective staff record since that opening of their first hotel in Park Lane 35 years ago, a happy staff means contented customers.