Gliffaes Hotel is a piece of Italy set in glorious Welsh countryside and a veritable delight for those of a fishing disposition. The hotel's publicity quotes "A piece of Italy with an English garden fit for a Greek God set in the Welsh countryside" a piece of encapsulation which leaves one reaching for the phone with one hand and, if you're in the know, your rods with the other.

Happily the inner man is lovingly cared for and within the panelled dining room the air of confidence that comes with well-served and attractive food, is apparent. The hotel attempts to source 75% of its fresh produce from within 25 miles of the hotel, happily a not unreasonable target given the largesse around.

A starter might consist of spiced langoustine and mussel broth scented with coriander, or spring pea soup finished with crispy bacon and crème fraiche. The Gloucester Old Spot roast pork served on pomme fondant with baby vegetables makes an excellent main course, but consider also the grilled fillet of red mullet set on herb taglioline with mussel, saffron and vegetable broth.

Puddings are suitably wicked and the warm chocolate tart with white chocolate ice cream can always be walked off next day. An excellent wine list of some 80 bins does the trick fine and 80% of the wines are under £20. House is from £12.30.