Restaurant at Gravetye Manor

There are places where even the mention of their name induces a sign of contentment as the eyes mist over with the recollections, and so it is with Gravetye; after all the name itself is evocative, like a favoured place from a Dornford Yates novel.

There is still no reason to change one word of those sentiments. To go to Gravetye is to make a journey back to 1598 when Richard Infield built the house for his wife, Katherine, so little has changed. Between 1884-1935 William Robinson, one of the great pioneering gardeners of all time created the great English garden that still exists, surrounded by its 1000-acre ring of magnificent trees.

Gravetye was purchased in 2004 by the former General Manager, Andrew Russell, and Chef de Cuisine, Mark Raffan, both of whom had been there for over 17 years with Peter Herbert. Between all three, one of the most imposing array of awards and accolades ever collected by one single restaurant has been built up, and continues to grow.

Their 18 bedrooms are spacious and comfortable, providing guests with a relaxing, homely atmosphere and then there are some excellent views to be enjoyed as well. The hotel is also well-equipped to handle business travellers with wireless internet facilities being available throughout.

The centrepiece is the oak-panelled dining room in which a daily three course table d'hôte menu and a seasonal three course menu are offered. Let us first take a look at an example of the seasonal menu á la carte, starting with a tian of Cornish crab, open lasagne of locally shot wood pigeon with seared foie gras, or a terrine of smoked fish with lemon verbena dressing and pea sprouts.

Loin of local roe deer with curly kale, cocotte potatoes, garden vegetables and black currant sauce takes a lead amongst the main courses, with the assiette of rabbit not far behind. Pan fried West Coast scallops and langoustine is accompanied by warm potato blinis, émincé of leek and cappuccino of langoustine. John Dory comes as a sautéed fillet while the roast best end of lamb with a navarin of the sweetbreads and kidney.

Amongst the desserts expect to see a hot dark chocolate soufflé with and iced white chocolate soufflé, clotted cream and raspberry coulis, or a Gravetye's apple tart tatin with blackberry compote and Calvados ice cream. Historic old gents who like their savoury in the form of warm grilled goats' cheese will not go away empty either, and the cheese selection is just sublime. No other word for it.

A table d'hôte lunch might consist of a cream of white onion soup, seared pave of black bream or pot au feu, followed by sticky toffee pudding.

Like everything else at Gravetye, the wine list of over 600 bins displays the same care and attention and is put together with advice from Reid Wines. It includes a Cote Tariquet Chardonnay/Sauvignon Blanc 2003 from France, an unusual wine, and a Secreto Viognier 2004 from Chile as well as many other tried or thought-provoking bottles.

Gravetye's attractive Website will keep you up to date, particularly with the seasonal menu changes. Do note though that they do not cater for children under 7 years of age.