Restaurant at Gravetye Manor

Some years ago, when reviewing Gravetye, I said, 'There are places where even the mention of their name induces a sign of contentment as the eyes mist over with the recollections, and so it is with Gravetye; after all the name itself is evocative, like a favoured place from a Dornford Yates novel'.

I still see no reason to change one word of those sentiments. To go to Gravetye is to make a journey back to 1598 when Richard Infield built the house for his wife, Katherine, so little has changed. Between 1884-1935 William Robinson, one of the great pioneering gardeners of all time created the great English garden that still exists, surrounded by its 1000-acre ring of magnificent trees.

Gravetye was purchased in 2004 by the former General Manager, Andrew Russell, and Chef de Cuisine, Mark Raffan, both of whom had been there for over 17 years with Peter Herbert. Between all three, one of the most imposing array of awards and accolades ever collected by one single restaurant has been built up, and continues to grow.

The centrepiece is the oak-panelled dining room in which a daily three course table d'hôte menu and a seasonal three course menu are offered. Let us first take a look at an example of the seasonal menu a la carte, starting with a tian of Cornish crab, roast scallop and chilled gazpacho, or a mosaic of spring rabbit foie gras and spiced peach rhubarb and orange relish.

When we arrive at springtime English asparagus is at its best with an accompaniment of Gravetye's smoked salmon, Hollandaise and creamy asparagus soup, or perhaps the trio of foie gras, cured ballotine, pan fried with tomato and aubergine chutney, and warm mousse with Earl Grey jelly.

Loin of local organic veal with new season morel, saffron pasta and creamy Madeira sauce takes a lead amongst the main courses, with the assisette of Scottish lobster not far behind. A fillet of West Coast turbot is accompanied by a delicate salmon and lobster sausage, garden vegetables and vanilla scented nage. Red mullet and John Dory come as a sautéed fillet with a simple fricassée of mussels, leeks and tomatoes.

Amongst the desserts expect to see a hot mango soufflé with a tulip of mango, orange and chilli syrup, or a lightly poached peach with gratin of strawberries and peach marquise. We historic old gents who like our savoury in the form of traditional Welsh rarebit will not go empty away either, and the cheese selection is just sublime. No other word for it.

A table d'hôte lunch might consist of a ballotine of foie gras and squab pigeon, crispy fried skate wing or pan fried calf's liver and bacon, followed by chocolate and orange crème brûlée.

Like everything else at Gravetye, the wine list of over 600 bins displays the same care and attention and is put together with advice from Reid Wines. It includes a Cote Tariquet Chardonnay/Sauvignon Blanc 2003 from France, a new and unusual wine, and a Casablanca Merlot 2000 from Chile as well as many other tried or thought-provoking bottles.

Gravetye's attractive Website will keep you up to date, particularly with the seasonal menu changes. Do note though that they do not cater for children under 7 years of age.