I recall Highgrove House opening up in the 1980s, times when a wider spread of eating out was hard to find on Scotland's West Coast, but is now happily much more widely available. In many ways Highgrove was, and remains, the flagship of the Costley empire, appropriately enough since it was first built as the home of a Sea Captain. There are lunch, dinner and supper menus, all with extensive choices that turn the decision-taking process into a mouthwatering trip.

A choice of around twelve starters includes fresh oysters, Shetland mussels, House of Burns smoked salmon, and pan-fried langoustines. Do I detect a seafood-inclined menu - darned right I do - they know what sells.

Main courses follow much the same stream, with langoustine and scallop thermidor, local seabass caesar salad, strips of beef Stroganoff, and grilled sirloin steak. Lobster is a speciality, very much at the whim of the market, as ever and as it should be. A great range of salads have a good solid base, no limp, over-inflated greenery here.

Puddings at Highgrove are exotic to the point of flamboyance, with some original twists on well-known names. It is little wonder that Highgrove has retained its popularity over the years.