Restaurant at Hintlesham Hall, The

Hintlesham Hall, one of England's loveliest hotels offers 21st century facilities in a 16th century Grade 1 listed mansion, nestling in 175 acres of rolling Suffolk countryside. The Hall's restaurant is recognised as one of the top 10% in the country.

Whilst the outer appearance of Hintlesham has changed over the centuries to the point where it is now settled firmly in the Georgian period, the interiors have largely clung to their atmospheric origins. The largest of the three dining rooms, the Salon, has to be one of the most beautiful of its kind, and is well matched by the Parlour, a richly panelled room of enormous charisma.

It is within this setting, which effortlessly retains the atmosphere of a much-loved home, that Head Chef Alan Ford works his brand of magic with a cuisine that appears to combine all the principal attractions so appealing to those who dine out with intent.

Local ingredients are regularly deployed, none more so than the dazzling range of herbs, gathered daily from a vital part of the Robert Carrier inheritance in the tranquil grounds that surround Hintlesham. The cream of chive soup, with gremolata gratin, becomes a whole new experience given that sort of provenance; a pressed red mullet and tuna terrine introduces a subtle blending of flavours, assisted by a light pimento dressing.

Amongst the main courses a magret of duck with pickled spring greens and a sweet plum sauce, gives a double edge of fresh produce with an individual approach. But for sheer simplicity combined with brilliance the fillet of veal with wild mushrooms and Armagnac is almost unsurpassable.

The originality of married flavours continues with a pear and banana crumble, assisted but by no means overpowered with a rum Anglaise sauce. By this time guests will have understood that when the bill of fare offers 'interesting British and French cheeses' this is yet another classic piece of culinary modesty, not to be taken lightly.

There is a menu for every occasion at Hintlesham, but perhaps the one that is taken most seriously and most often is Sunday lunch, a really festive occasion in a laid back county like Suffolk. The meal is a three course event, with three choices at each course. Starters of cumin risotto with Munster cheese, or pressed smoke haddock, potato and leek terrine compete with cream of pumpkin soup, scented with orange.

Inevitably the main event is roast sirloin of beef with Yorkshire pudding and white wine gravy, and for the dissenters a feuilleté of lamb fillet, or pan fried tail of monkfish wrapped in Parma ham. Puddings tend to make for a very stressful period as the relative merits of a dark chocolate tart are weighed against those of a Calvados crème brûlée or the semi candied plums with clotted cream.

The wine list at Hintlesham Hall is characteristically direct. 'We list good wine to be enjoyed at all price levels, from the amazingly well-made . . . .to the mighty aristocrats from the best vineyards. . . . . Service is discreet and un-hurried", and like everything else at Hintlesham betrays a genuine interest in, and concern for, those who seek an association, however fleeting or protracted, with the top 10%.

For more information about dining or staying at one of the finest hotels in England, you could visit their Website.