Another of those delightful family-owned Scottish retreats where the family carry on much as they did before, except that the guest list seems to be a bit busier than it was before they took the plunge. Dinner consists of six courses and we are not talking delicate helpings here - this is a place for trenchermen and fortunately the surrounding area and all it has to offer tends to ensure you are equal to the task when the gong rings. There is a predictable abundance of local materials for chef Robert McPherson to draw upon, and they are treated with skill and respect. The wine list plays its part admirably and there are some wonderful choices both old and new, taking off at less than £9 for the French house wine.