Yet another of those superb family-run hotels in Scotland, in superb locations, efficiently managed and a real joy to the discerning. Kinloch House was built in 1840 when it was fashionable for successful jute merchants to build themselves a country retreat well away from the scene of their commercial toil, but near enough to be handy in case of trouble at the mill. How richly they rested from their labours and how fortunate we are that people like the Allen family run their houses now with such quiet skill.

Such matters as napery, service and décor are, as one would expect, faultless and provide the right setting for pleasures to come. Amongst the starters are pigeon breast with foie gras and onion chutney, or Highland salmon marinated in whiskey, an interesting and evocative combination likely to fire you up for river or hill if the time is right. It tends to become a truism these days in writing about quality Scottish hotels to go on about the locally produced, grown, shot, caught, snared, reared whatever, but happily it is true and thankful we should be for it. Nor is it confined to the larger hotels and restaurants. In passing, a tribute to A Taste of Scotland, that wonderful institution set up by Lester Borley and his team so many years ago, is certainly in order.

Kinloch House provides steaks for men of gargantuan proportions (steaks, not men, that is - generally) which lose nothing of quality in their proportions, quite the reverse, and the accompanying sauces are in keeping. Since there is normally a soup course between starter and mains an energetic day beforehand on the hill or elsewhere is recommended. For others there is the lamb, served with its sweetbreads or a grilled halibut fillet with tarragon and foie gras ravioli on roast garlic mash and an exuberant mussel sauce.

The blueberries from the surrounding hills have a flavour all their own; try them in a tart accompanied by a cinnamon ice cream. Kinloch House is a haven for those with a penchant for claret, and the Burgundies are not far behind. House wines range from £16.95 or £3.75 a glass.

Reviewed by Michael Tebbutt