Some years ago my wife and I celebrated our anniversary here on a gorgeous early summer evening. As we sat in pole position at the window looking across the bay, from the south trundled a vast supertanker, whilst from the north a faithful replica of the Golden Hind ghosted on to the scene. For the next fifteen minutes we remained absorbed as they passed each other before disappearing off stage leaving the sea to the setting sun.

I mention this because it was one of several abiding images that have stayed with us, of an evening in which almost every aspect was marked by perfection. And that certainly included the food. Since then there have been changes and successive owners have always made sure they were for the better - if that is possible. A typical dinner nowadays could start with pan-seared duck foie gras, with puy lentils and beurre noisette, followed by cauliflower and wild garlic veloute with a softly poached quail's egg and white truffle oil. The grilled fillet of native salmon is served with a potato wafer, paysanne of leek and a red wine and star anise reduction. For the termination a hot banana and galliano soufflé with double vanilla bean ice cream. I seem to recall that on occasions when I intimated I could not ignore the cheese either, my implied request was met without demur - or charge.

The meal flows, with exquisite timing and grace - no awkward moments or sense of haste. Nor would it be possible to ignore the wine cellar, with over 450 selections to delight and inspire. A visit to the cellar with mine host is a virtual imperative. Nor should the collection of single malts be lightly ignored. Knockinaam is almost certainly my idea of gourmet heaven - the complete package - little wonder that Churchill spent some especially tense times here during WW2. Perhaps he, too, knew that feeling of listening to the silence that is so much a feature of this wonderful place.