Should the sounds of ghostly oratory assail you during your time at Llangoed Hall, worry not. The Hall stands on the site of the Welsh Parliament of 1400 years ago and it is said that it was this connection that inspired Sir Clough Williams-Ellis, of Portmeirion fame, to transform this Jacobean country house into an Edwardian re-incarnation at the behest of the Christy family.

Chef Sean Ballington is an innovator, but not for the sake of it, and many of his dishes are very recognisable - all are well-presented and generous. The panelled dining room fittings are reminiscent of a home rather than an hotel. The pressing of local duckling with orange and Grand Marnier jelly, red pepper coulis and bacon biscuit is effectively a signature starter. The steamed brill with lobster sausage, crab and spring onion risotto, braised leeks and lobster butter is a piece of sheer self-indulgence, and not only in the dining room either, to which many will succumb. The baby pineapple tarte tatin is accompanied by peppered honey ice-cream and star anaise syrup.

An excellent wine list keeps pace with the quality of the table. House wine is available by the glass or bottle from £4.50 and £18.00 respectively.