Restaurant at Maes-y-Neuadd Hotel

What was originally a quite modest 14th century property has now become a handsome country house with more than the usual ration of fine views and lush surrounding countryside. The cuisine is pretty sensational too. Dinner can be quite a grand affair depending on the number of courses you select.

Quite achievable is a starter of spicy crab parcel with strips of vegetables and a wild horseradish butter sauce. Follow with clear mushroom cawl topped with a cheese soufflé. Then it's a choice between the breast of wild pheasant and mallard duck and the noisettes of Welsh mountain lamb with a leek, wild garlic and hazelnut crust.

Welsh cheeses then come to the fore with Pen Beri, Snowdonia and Granston Blue, with carrot and herb bread and homemade oatcakes or perhaps the yellow raspberry and dark chocolate tart accompanied by a citrus cream. There is something of an air of theatre about the evening, in the best possible way, not altogether unassisted by the genial staff.