Restaurant at Old Pines Hotel

Old Pines is one of those places that happens once in a while, where everything is right and you wonder why you can't stay there for ever. The whole place is redolent of the personality of Suki, joint owner, kitchen goddess and partner of Bill, her rock. Between them they have created a homely hotel with food very much at the centre.

Suki, a Masterchef of Great Britain is a leading light in Natural Cooking of Scotland and travels widely on their behalf. If I had to pick one word to express their philosophy it would be 'natural'. The poly tunnel produces much of their salad material, the ducks and chickens lay the eggs and Bill smokes the fish they catch in their own smokehouse. In the kitchen bread and ice cream all comes from Suki's hands.

Going with the principle of locally sourced materials try the Isle of Muck crab soup, accompanied by a glass of Jackson Estate Riesling, followed by a fruit, walnut and cheese salad with a raspberry vinegar and pumpkin seed oil dressing. A main course of breast of duck with fried parsnips and a Madeira, Seville orange, garlic and coriander sauce, accompanied by the tastiest of vegetables could be followed by a rhubarb and banana brulee.

To round off proceedings allow yourself to be beguiled by a Wester Lawrenceton un-pasteurised and organic sweet-milk cheese and oatcakes, blessed with a glass of Porto Pocas 1986 Port. I will place money on the proposition that you will wish to return - naturally.