Tucked away in one of the most scenic areas of Britain, mid-Wales, is the Red Lion Inn. This 16th century drover's inn, newly refurbished, full of character with open fires and oak beams in abundance, has a long history of providing travellers with sustenance, and, in this day and age, meals of high quality are one of the rewards of penetrating this land of lakes, mountains and warm-hearted people.

Start with Black Mountain smoked trout pate pancake with sour cream and cucumber sauce. In the circumstances I think I would forgo my inclination towards swordfish steaks and head for the medallions of Welsh black fillet beef, with crumbled Welsh blue cheese and port wine sauce.

The chocolate truffle with orange sauce might have to compete with that Welsh cheese board. The wine list is exceptionally well-priced, even if the choice may be slightly limited.