The north east corner of Norfolk yields wonderful surprises not least of which is pubs like The Rose and Crown, with their ancient form, their hints of smuggling and other mildly nefarious activity, and remoteness from the less pleasant aspects of everyday life.

All this, together with many of the decidedly more pleasant 21st century benefits adds up to a place to cherish and enjoy.

You can, of course, stay at The Rose and Crown, and one of the best reasons for doing so is to enjoy to the full the delights of the table and cellar, even if part of the cellar has been converted into a very cosy place in which to eat. But my money would be on the dining room with its warm décor, low ceiling and general air of undemanding informality. The menu draws on surrounding produce and Thornham oysters sit well with local game and seafood. A starter of parmesan crumpet with duck livers and oranges makes an attractive starter, or whole sardines with a black pudding fritter and chorizo oil. For main courses choose from a wide variety of dishes including game pie with black cabbage and garlic mash, crispy salmon with warm peach and a mussel and kale salad, or an open flamed ribeye steak with horseradish butter and some thoroughly sinful fries. Their Caesar salad with lemon and black pepper chicken, bacon, anchovies and croutes is renowned.

For the puddings you may well be injured in the rush for the caramelised banana pancakes with mascarpone, in which case the citrus parfait with raspberry and tarragon syrup makes a sound alternative. A well-stocked cellar, decent local beers and cheerful service all adds up to an evening to recall with pleasure, particularly as the prices are reasonable to the point of disbelief.