Restaurant at Rustington Manor Hotel

Rustington Manor is one of those hotels that bridge the gap well between the large and sometimes impersonal colossi, and the restaurant with rooms. Modern, well-equipped and air conditioned, the elegant restaurant seats 40/50, and is open to guests and non-residents. Bookings for larger parties can also be taken. Gentle pastel shades combine with clever use of mirrors to emphasize a feeling of grace and space, and the dining room adjoins a cosy lounge and well-equipped bar. Susan Wadsworth runs front of house.

In the kitchens, husband Jonathan Wadsworth works to an essentially English menu that makes a nod every now and again to France. Jon goes to much trouble to source game, meat, fish, fruit and vegetables from the rich abundance that is to be found in Sussex.

Starters may include a hot Rocamadour cheese pie served with red onion marmalade and a herb dressing, sea scallops set on a bed of confit artichokes and a blood orange dressing, or Swiss cheese soufflé garnished with a red pepper coulis. In recent years soup has shrugged off its brown Windsor image and companies have been set up to supply nothing but soup, much of it very good quality, so it is always good to see the real thing out of an hotel kitchen, as in the asparagus soup served with white truffle oil and chervil cream.

Amongst the main courses fillet of organic Foyle gourmet beef, topped with a horseradish crust and Port glaze commands attention and respect, as does the roasted best end of Southdown lamb, served with a grain mustard and Madeira cream. As if the carnivores were not already well looked after, Southdown comes into the frame again, this time with saddle of venison marinated in juniper and bay, and served with a red wine jus. Local sea bream has asparagus and roasted tomato with basil sauce for company, and all dishes are served with a variety of seasonal vegetable and potatoes. Additional vegetables can be served on request.

Desserts seem to be a speciality of the house and head off with lime panna cotta accompanied by a blueberry ice cream, or coconut and Malibu soufflé, served with an orange tuille. The sticky toffee steamed pudding must have more manifestations than the time-honoured bread and butter pudding, but here it is again served with crème anglaise. One of Jonathan's specialities are the red berry shortbreads, which stand on their own as an indulgent and toothsome finish to any meal.

Someone at Rustington Manor knows about wine and their list is a worthy contribution to the cause of enjoyment in that direction. Furthermore it is a friendly list in that the prices are extraordinarily reasonable and few bottles venture beyond the £35 mark, with glasses at £3.50 for a 175ml measure. I spotted eight thoroughly decent champagnes, an English cuvée from the Ridgeview Estate, and that wonderfully fragrant Cloudy Bay Sauvignon from that source of much good contemporary wine, New Zealand.

The menu at Rustington Manor changes with the seasons and the markets, and a quick check on their Website will give you an update.