Restaurant at Summer Isles Hotel

Every so often one comes across a restaurant that is special well beyond the call of duty. Of such an ilk is the dining room of The Summer Isles Hotel, unspoiled, unpretentious and supervised with an outwardly light touch by Mark and Gerry Irvine.

For anybody suffering from overstress or super-tension this is the place to go, to savour its timelessness and its tranquillity. No laptop, mobile or other paraphernalia, just go jungle for as long as you can. A large part of the treatment is the meals. Lunch is fairly cursory and highlights seafood. A substantial plate of oysters or perhaps langoustines (a hotel staple) and spiny lobsters. By the way most of the produce and materials used are locally sourced, all part of the cure.

The surrounding country has a rugged appeal that induces a matching appetite, so it is likely the five course set dinner, at £45, will be despatched with gusto. It is equally likely that a stunning sunset will compete for your attentions, so let the pace remain serene. Grilled John Dory filled with a caviar and vermouth sauce, roast duck with a spiced plum compote, delicious smoked haddock, all feature in a variety of ways that has earned the restaurant a Michelin star and wide critical approval. The home-baked brown bread, summer fruit meringue roulade with treacle and Drambuie ice box pudding and range of totally fresh fish just pile on the pleasure.

When it comes to wine Summer Isles is no laggard and over 400 bins await your appraisal, with house wine at £11.50. There is no tiresome formality, yet the degree of control behind the scenes ensures a smooth and quietly confident façade.