Every so often one comes across a restaurant that is special, well beyond the call of duty. Of such an ilk is the dining room of The Summer Isles Hotel, unspoiled, unpretentious and supervised with an outwardly light touch by Duncan and Aurelie. Lunch is fairly cursory and highlights seafood leading to a substantial plate of oysters or perhaps langoustines (a hotel staple) and spiny lobsters. By the way most of the produce and materials used are locally sourced, all part of the cure.

The five course set dinner comprises of such dishes as warm scallop mousse, pan fried breast of wood pigeon or filo parcel of monkfish tails, which all feature in a variety of ways that has earned the restaurant a Michelin star and wide critical approval. When it comes to wine, Summer Isles is no laggard and over 400 bins await your appraisal. There is no tiresome formality, yet the degree of control behind the scenes ensures a smooth and quietly confident façade.