Restaurant at Summer Lodge

If there is one part of rural southern England that remains relatively immune from the worst excesses of our overcrowded island it must be those tucked away areas within the Dorset Downs. In some places little changed since the days of Hardy they offer a retro view into another, kinder world. Harpers and Queen magazine recognise this quality and Summer Lodge has their accolade amongst "100 Best Places in the World" and "Top 10 in the UK".

In no small way this is due to the 3 AA Rosette award-winning restaurant, where the Relais and Châteaux code of Courtesy, Charm, Character, Calm and Cuisine is well recognised. With a menu presided over by Executive Chef, Steven Titman, formerly of the popular White Barn Inn in Kennebunkport, Maine, widely acclaimed at an international level, it is not surprising that awards tend to flow in parallel with the smoothness of the service.

The menu takes its inspiration from the ingredients so richly available in this well-blessed part of England, a fact of which the public at large become increasingly aware as Hugh Fernley Whittingstall continues to sing their praises at River Cottage HQ. Starters may include seared sea scallops with Jerusalem artichokes, a warm smoked haddock fillet with white bean and chorizo 'cassoulet', trio of quail in the form of roast breast, confit leg and consommé, or grilled red mullet with a butternut squash carpaccio.

Steve Titman's signature dish invokes the best of Dorset, with roast loin of Dorset lamb and braised shoulder 'Shepherd's Pie' with Savoy cabbage and rosemary jus. The sea is seductively near and some of the best fish in Britain is landed along the south coast. Keep a lookout for Cornish turbot, langoustine and winter truffle strudel with creamed cauliflower and Noilly prat, or a delightful lasagne of John Dory fillets and local mussels with a light curry foam and cucumber salad.

Desserts could in no way be described as puddings - rather works of culinary art, each with its own recommended wine. A glass or two of Italian Braida, Brachetto d'Acqui (DOCG) Piedmont 2004 may give the clue to an assiette of 'Valrhona' chocolate, dark chocolate fondant, white chocolate mousse and milk chocolate ice cream, surely enough to beguile the most resistant sweet-tooth.

All four of the desserts on the menu come together as a Taste of Summer Lodge for two people to share, even greater fun if you have a glass of each of the suggested wines en route.

For those able to pool their gourmet aspirations into one menu the two taster menus offer a wonderful solution, with grilled fillet of veal, local ham, Swiss cheese beignets, vanilla panna cotta and roasted blackberries, followed by Malibu jelly, coconut sorbet and mango sauce, as but one example.

On hand to assist in matters of wine is the resident Sommelier, backed by the resources of a notable list. Wine Dinners are a regular feature of the restaurant's, normally held on the first Tuesday of the month, when Eric Siebel MS, Cellar Master at Summer Lodge, offers a menu of four courses with five wines, starting at an incredibly reasonable £65.