Here is one of those legendary places that are utterly timeless and remain comfortingly the same. Originally an 18th century coaching inn it has now become a haven for anglers for whom the banks of no less than five rivers prove irresistible. As with the majority of really worthwhile pastimes if they can be combined with some comfortable living they become even more attractive.

There is really nothing one can say to throw a breath of criticism at this operation, from the meticulously sourced local supplies, to the painstaking care in preparation. Such evocative names as Helford oysters and St Enodoc asparagus fairly set the taste-buds budding.

Service is efficient and crisp and the coffee memorable. The well-established wine list yields handsome dividends and house wine at £11 is, like everything else, incredibly good value for quality.