Restaurant at The Bathurst Arms

The Cotswolds, as we all know, are full of gems of one sort or another, particularly when it comes to what used to be termed 'hostelries'. The Bathurst Arms is essentially a traditional inn which brings together excellent food, wines and accommodation under one hospitable roof, in surroundings that are quintessentially English.

Before we move on to co-owner James Walker's obsession with wine, particularly the better sort, let's take a look at the food. True to local sensitivities there is a short but attractive list of Bathurst Bites for the benefit of those who, for some unaccountable reason, do not have long to linger in this temple of middle England hedonism. Battered monkfish kebabs vie with mixed breads and Italian olive oil, salsa fresca and salted nuts. Submarine roll sandwiches in white or brown come with a selection of tasty fillings including Colston Basset Stilton and Gloucester Old Spot sausage.

For a real meal try starters of spicy, pulled wild boar and crispy bacon, or devilled lambs' kidney with roasted sausage served in a rich Dijon and red wine gravy, and a cheese crouton.

Main courses include their favourites, available on Sunday lunchtime only when the place is heaving with jollity, not least of which is the infamous Bathurst burger, 100% beef on a toasted cheese bap and all the trimmings. Yellowfin tuna steak arrives on red savoury rice with plenty of garlicky green vegetables and cracked blackpepper and brandy sauce.

Double chocolate mud pie eats much better than you might at first think, perhaps it's the vanilla ice cream that arrives with it, but my money would be on the marmalade bread and butter pudding with custard and - inspired touch - candied orange.

From all of which you will observe this is a place for hearty eaters. There are also tremendous bargains to be had amongst the more specialist wines at this thoroughly admirably honest English country inn.