Restaurant at The Bell at Skenfrith

A former coaching inn that has been thoroughly reinvented as a hotel for the 21st century, though managing to retain some of the old world charm. Outside the River Monnow adds to the scenic attraction provided by the gentle hills of Monmouthshire. Les Routiers Inn of the Year 2004.

The menu does not offer any great surprises although it attempts to veer towards the adventurous side of modern with some success. A whole globe artichoke with Hollandaise sauce is fine, though anyone who finds this delicacy slightly daunting might find solace in the asparagus done as a feuillete with more of the Hollandaise or the seared Scottish scallops.

No self-respecting Welsh Borders restaurant can afford not to serve Welsh Black steaks, and there they are, with plenty of chips and Bearnaise sauce. Nothing wrong with chips provided they're the best and these are good. The canon of lamb, formerly resident of the Usk Valley comes with mango chutney, olive crushed potato, smoked ratatouille and rosemary jus, a pleasant combination of flavours. The vegetarian option comes in the form of a roasted pepper and basil risotto with a poached egg and parmesan.

When the puddings come round you won't be disappointed. The range of Welsh cheeses are notable to the point of irresistibility. The Bower Farm clotted cream served with the bread and butter pudding is in a class of its own and nobody can say that the management is not utilising Welsh products to the full.

The wine list has a passport full of rubber stamps and there are some particularly interesting French reds. House wines from £10. Relaxing over coffee after the meal may induce an inclination towards Scotland and the relatively brief but selective list of single malts.