It would be churlish indeed to omit mentioning what many mistakenly assume to be the home of the famous cheese of that name, nor is there the slightest intention to do so.

The famed cheese was in fact first produced by the Housekeeper at Quenby Hall, one Mrs Beaumont, not far from Leicester. It became associated with Stilton largely because this was the most convenient staging post for sending copious quantities of the stuff to London.

Dick Turpin is alleged to have had a hideaway at The Bell. Turpin would undoubtedly have approved of the dining arrangements which blend traditional and modern into an attractive menu that must have tickled the palate of many a weary traveller.

A parfait of chicken livers could precede an excellent braised blade of beef with creamed celeriac and roasted shallots, followed by some Long Clawston Stilton with home-baked plum bread. House wine is from £11.95 and a supple list offers choices from most continents.