In the heart of Exmoor lies Exford, with the Crown Hotel as its epicentre offering good accommodation and easy access to some of the more physical delights that one associates with Lorna Doone country. Most of these breed a healthy appetite and the Crown is more than adequate for the challenge.

In a pretty dining room Scott Dickson offers a menu which, whilst it does not exactly probe the limits of modern cooking makes a jolly good pass as dishes like ballotine of salmon, served with a Japanese vinaigrette, or a goat's cheese brulee with beetroot tarte tatin. Main courses follow much the same pattern with Rossini of fillet beef served with a potato puree and truffle sauce, and line caught sea bass with a lobster vierge. The seasons are recognised in the menu and local produce is far from unknown.

Wine too is taken seriously and a well-travelled list displays tender loving care en route. House wine at £12.25. No children under 7 years