The Burgesses took over the 16th century Dartmoor Inn at the worst possible time - just before F&M hit the United Kingdom. Despite this they are prospering, by virtue of sheer hard work, good food and plenty of imagination. The hard work involves theme nights, at which carefully sourced local ingredients feature strongly, with the names of the farms from which the meat came displayed for all to see.

Dishes are often unashamedly rustic in character and a shank of lamb, slowly roasted and with a citrus sauce rates particular mention, as well as their divinely light batter on their wonderful fish and chips. House wine at £11.75, with the list well priced and in the main under £20.

Matthew Norman in the Sunday Telegraph Magazine, March 2003, was highly impressed over two visits: "The appeal of the food rests not just with the accuracy of a chef, who, although imaginative, wisely prefers heartiness to over-fussiness. It's also the excellence of the ingredients."